Centuries ago, ancient Celts roamed the windy moors to worship the horned god Cernunnos. The ancient Egyptians crossed the deserts to invoke the protection of Isis. Druids would go to a clearing to perform rituals under the moon. But over time, these deities disappeared into myth; the rituals became clandestine.
However, recently, a resurgence of interest in pagan practices – crystals and tarot cards, astrology and herbal magic – has brought paganism from the margins to the center of pop culture, or at least to the top of your society. Tic Tac food.
At least 1.5 million people in the UNITED STATES identify as Pagans, up from 134,000 in 2001. They range from Wiccans and Kemetics to TikTok witches and pagans. (See explanation of these groups below.)
“There is, in general, a movement away from organized religions towards spirituality,” explains Helen Berger, author and sociologist of contemporary paganism and witchcraft. The women’s empowerment and gay rights movements, the climate crisis and the desire for a more life-affirming religion have fueled interest in the growing spiritual community, she adds.
From casting spells in Salem, Massachusettsat full moon rituals in Asheville, North Carolinato transcend the metaphysical plane in Sedona, Arizonahere’s how to immerse yourself in the cultural traditions of pagan communities.
The return to the mainstream
“It’s very difficult to summarize what paganism is given its great diversity,” says Sarah Pike, author and professor of comparative religion at California State University, Chico. “Pagans view the natural world as sacred. They celebrate the interconnectedness of all things, viewing humans, nature, and spiritual beings as part of a web of life.
Historically, the term pagan referred to anyone who did not believe in Judeo-Christian principles, often belonging to ancient cultures in countries such as Greece, Rome, EgyptScandinavia and Ireland. “Most ancient pagans did not use the term pagan themselves and did not consider themselves to be part of a distinct group,” says Edward Watts, a history professor at the University of California, San Diego.
After centuries of persecution, paganism remained essentially a fringe practice until the 1960s. It became an attractive religion for those rebelling against restrictive social norms. Over the past decade, the rise of TikTok (#witchtok has over 35 billion views) and popular TV shows like Chilling Adventures of Sabrina, Vikings, SupernaturalAnd American Horror Story: Coven help to generate increased interest in the spiritual movement.
Where to discover pagan culture
Attending a ritual event is one way to learn about pagan practices. Samhain, celebrated from the evening of October 31 to November 1, marks the end of the harvest season and the beginning of winter. In Salem, Pagans celebrate this holiday with festivals, dancing, nature walks, and honoring their ancestors. Visitors can attend the Official Salem Witches Halloween Ball to witness ceremonial dances, spell casting and other rituals.
Dixie “Queen Lady Passion” Deerman, founder and high priestess of Oldenwilde Assembly in Asheville, says that experiencing the rituals firsthand is transformational, as participants experience a state of ecstasy, creating a sense of oneness with other participants. “Immersing yourself in a ritual is akin to floating in soul-soothing water,” says Deerman. “Anyone can be drawn into a liberating rite that encourages unbridled passion.”
Travelers can visit Mother Grove Goddess Temple, near downtown Asheville, to participate in public rituals of the ancient holy days (and Earth Day) and participate in full moon ceremonies. During other key pagan holidays like Christmas (winter solstice), Ostara (spring equinox), and Litha (summer solstice), Salem The witch’s housethe city’s only permanent structure with direct ties to the Salem witch trials of 1692, offers live demonstrations and activities that teach pagan traditions.
(Witch hunting tourism is lucrative. It also obscures a tragic story.)
Roger Herson, a practicing witch doctor, says that Salem New England Magic And Pentacle are great starting points for those exploring paganism, as they are both “a store and a school of witchcraft and wizardry,” he says.
“There are many witches in Salem who still practice and teach ‘magic’ in an authentic way, unlike those who are more into the glitz and glamour,” Herson says.
Salem and Asheville aren’t the only cities known for pagan gatherings. In the south California, Renaissance of the Pacific Circle hosts a community retreat where campers unplug and connect to the land through spiritual rituals and educational workshops. Every July, at the summer solstice, WitchsFest United States– one of the most visible Pagan festivals in the United States – draws thousands of people to the streets of Manhattan for dance circles, 60 different “magical” workshops, and guest lectures by Pagan leaders from around the world.
Pagan communities full of psychic shops, astrology classes, natural healers, and metaphysical supply stores appeal to the physical components of Paganism. But in Sedona, a city known for its vortexes and spiral energy sites, it’s the spiritual activities that draw thousands of tourists to the Red Rocks each year.
“Tour guides will say there are four specific vortices around town: Airport Mesa, Cathedral Rock, Bell Rock, and Boynton Canyon, but local lore has it that the entire area is a vortex that enhances spiritual practices such as meditation, clairvoyance, and yoga,” explains Susannah Crockford, anthropologist and author.
For transformative experiences, Conscious Living Retreat in Sedonia allows guests to experience a New Moon Activation and Intention Ceremony And Retreat Ritual to rise at the gates of nature. Green Witch Creations, an apothecary in Sedona, offers workshops on spiritual empowerment, chakra alignment and aura healing. It also sells chakra jewelry and crystal wands, and offers tarot card readings and Reiki energy sessions.
Deerman says people curious about Paganism should look for ways to experience the culture on their own and be willing to learn. “Tourists come to meet us to see if what we write in our books is really true,” she says. “They see that we live what we write and that it inspires us.”
What you need to know: pagan terms
Pagan terms to know before you go.
Isis: The most powerful goddess in ancient Egyptian religion, she oversees healing and magic.
Druid: Practitioner of Druidry, an ancient pagan Celtic nature-based religion that believes in environmental stewardship.
Wiccan—A practitioner (often called a witch or wizard) of Wicca, one of the largest modern pagan nature-based religions.
Pagan – Follower of a nature-worshiping polytheistic or pantheistic religion.
Kemetic: person who follows the beliefs of the ancient Egyptian religion.
Tik Tok Witch: A social media influencer who shares her knowledge about witchcraft, spirituality, and magic.
Pagan—A devotee of the Norse gods who considers the Eddas and Icelandic sagas (oral poems recorded in the 13th century) to be sacred texts.
Witchcraft: Religious practice involving magic and affinity with nature, usually as part of a pagan tradition.
#witchtok: a specialized section of TikTok, a video sharing application, which revolves around magic and witchcraft.
Full Moon Ceremonies – A ritual event that takes place during a full moon to help release negativity and recharge spiritual and emotional batteries.