Haya Bishouty shares how she champions Palestinian culture through her cooking
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When Haya Bishouty entered her dining room for her first sufra, she was both proud and tense. It was what she had always wanted deep in her heart: to perpetuate Palestinian culinary traditions that are disappearing over time.
It was a clear, sunny day in January 2020, just before the coronavirus pandemic brought the world to a screeching halt. Bishouty, a former public relations professional whose grandparents are from Palestine, was hosting what would be the first in an ongoing series of dinners aimed at educating people about Palestinian cuisine and culture at her Dubai home.
There were about 10 people around the table: family, friends and a few acquaintances. Dressed in her grandmother’s polka dot thobe, Bishouty threw herself into her new role, confident she was on the right track. That night she went to bed relieved.
“They were all saying, ‘Ah, the food tastes like what my grandmother made,'” says the curly-haired businesswoman; his eyes overflowing with pride. She is conscious of having managed to organize a sensory experience for her guests week after week.
Bishouty, who turns 33 in a few weeks, started Haya’s Kitchen three years ago. Her motto, she says, is not only to let people – Palestinians and non-Palestinians alike – taste the rich cuisine of the region, but also to serve up nuggets of information about the delicious spread of her sufra, which is literally translated as dining table in Arabic.
“I want to honor my heritage. I am Palestinian, but I have never had the opportunity to be in Palestine. My grandparents left around 1948 and were never able to return.
“Haya’s Kitchen is, in a way, a tribute to my tetas (the Arabic word for grandmothers). They had a huge influence in my life,” she says.
There was a time when Bishouty didn’t feel “connected to the land (Palestine)” and struggled with what she calls an “identity crisis.” But her sufras, brimming with traditional delights and warm conversations, transport her and others to a land she has never seen – even for a few fleeting but precious hours.
Bishouty, a globetrotter born in Greece, says the community dinners have been an enriching experience for her and something she is proud of.
“In fast-paced cities, we take our food for granted. We don’t really have time to understand why this food is the way it is, why we eat this food in this season, where this food comes from and the stories behind this food. I truly believe that food connects people. We can understand cultures through their food,” she says.
Bishouty emphasizes that “in Palestine we have very specific dishes, indigenous and true to the land,” and that she wants to challenge the misconception that “Lebanese food is Palestinian food.”
“It is true that we share a lot of flavors in the Levant region, but there are distinct flavors that come from Palestine. So it’s important for me to continue the discussion,” she says.
Bishouty shares the story of her first sufra, where she served a dessert called mughli, a caraway pudding. The word mughli means to boil something. This is how this dish is supposed to be prepared. It is traditionally prepared after childbirth – and Palestinian grandmothers serve it to visitors and new mothers. “Palestinians believe that caraway has many health benefits for breastfeeding mothers. I added it to my first sufra menu as a symbolic gesture, signifying the birth of Haya’s Kitchen,” she says.
How food should be consumed is equally important, emphasizes Bishouty. For example, musakhan is traditionally eaten with the hands. It’s the “national dish” of Palestine consisting of taboo bread, onions simmered with olive oil and sumac, and oven-roasted chicken with tons of other spices, she continues. Usually it is garnished with nuts and eaten with yogurt.
“The reason we eat it with our hands is to make sure we taste the flavor of the olive oil. Additionally, we believe that our soul, or nafas in Arabic, is also in our fingers. When I cook, I transfer my nafas to the food. And guests can savor the love that has been poured into a dish by tasting it the way it was meant to be eaten, that is, with the hand,” says Bishouty.
Seasonality of food also matters, Bishouty reiterates. “The citrus season occurs in winter and Palestinians believe in preserving their fruits and vegetables,” she says. During winters, Palestinians preserved lemon juice by adding generous amounts of sugar. It takes about two to three days for the sugar to completely dissolve into lemonade, says Bishouty. It is then stored in Palestinian pantries called namliyeh or mouneh.
Although Bishouty’s grandparents taught her a lot about Palestinian cuisine and their history, she also conducted independent research to learn more, making sure what she shares at the table is accurate. “You know, I’m a fact-checker and journalist myself,” she smiles.
Nowadays, Bishouty holds his sufras once or twice a month at Flip Side on Alserkal Avenue in Dubai. The place is a stylish vinyl record store where visitors can find a wide range of music, from jazz to soul. Founded in 2017, its walls are covered with posters of Western music icons, such as Frank Sinatra and Bob Marley, and Arab music figures, such as Abdel Halim Hafez and Umm Kalthoum, among others. The place is owned by Bishouty’s husband, Shadi Megallaa, who supported her on her incredible journey and encouraged her to do something she truly believes in.
No more than 14 people can attend the Bishouty sufra on any given day. This, she says, helps keep table interactions warm and intimate. Alongside the sufras – entry to which is Dh300 per person – she also runs workshops that teach Palestinian culinary skills, such as rolling grape leaves.
From bread to olive oils, Bishouty makes it a point to purchase all of her ingredients from Palestinian suppliers. In her efforts, she is helped by her community and a few part-time volunteers.
“Every day our food is taken away from us. Every day our land is taken away from us. Every day our people are taken from us,” says Bishouty. “It’s important that people understand that this is Palestinian food – it’s our culture – and it’s not going to disappear. »
