In the Korean suspense drama Squid gamea major character has a dream: she is from North Korea, and she always wanted to go to Jeju Island in South Korea.
This dream saved his life – for one more day, of course. But since then, I too have always wanted to visit Jeju. What is it about this southernmost part of South Korea that has been the romantic backdrop for so many K-dramas?
There are a lot of them, actually.
Jeju is a conglomeration of natural wonders, man-made delights, casinos and delicious delicacies to tempt you to stay as long as possible and keep coming back. It’s possible to visit Jeju in three days, but it would be quite a rushed vacation. I think the optimal duration is around five days.
If you want to participate in some activities, like hiking Mount Hallasan, scuba diving, or horseback riding at the many horse farms that dot the island, be prepared to take up to 10 days off work.
Currently, there are no direct flights from any of the Malaysian airports to Jeju, but you can fly to Singapore first and take one of the non-stop flights to the island from there. Another option is to fly to Seoul and then take a domestic flight to Jeju.
Once there, the best way to get around is to drive. Car rentals are not too expensive. You can get a sedan for around US$100 (RM468) per day. Car navigation systems look great and can be converted to any major language. Electric charging ports are also numerous for those who prefer to preserve the environment.
If you’re nervous about driving on the left, you can take taxis everywhere. There are tourist buses (No. 810-1 and No. 810-2) that run along all coastal routes in Jeju, both east and west. A full-day ticket costs 3,000 KRW (RM11), but it doesn’t take you to the doorstep of many good attractions.
Your base camp
You probably have friends who have been to Jeju. They all have different advice, like: “You should pack your bags and move from east to west, discovering a different hotel each time. »
Or: “No, you should stay in the south.” Seogwipo city is the best!
But honestly, Jeju Island is not that big. It is only 2.5 times the size of Singapore. It is perfectly acceptable to choose a base, preferably either north of Jeju City or south of Seogwipo City, where there are many spectacular waterfalls and cliffs.
Crossing from north to south or north to east will only take you an hour to an hour and a half to drive. And yes, there can be a lot of traffic during rush hour.
Mount Hallasan forms the center of Jeju. It’s 2,000m above sea level and you’ll have to take a day off for the hike, which I hear is dotted with wildflowers in spring and autumn. The days I wanted to visit Mount Hallasan, it rained like there was no tomorrow. When it wasn’t raining, it was foggy.
Many people will tell you that the best route to Jeju is to have no itinerary at all. In my experience, it’s best to have some sort of daily route, otherwise you’ll end up being inefficient with your time and fuel consumption.
Therefore, I have divided my explorations into the following geographical sections.
North
Jeju Town itself is to the north and has plenty of shops. Visit Dongmun Traditional Market, where you can taste Jeju street food in its most spectacular form. Vendors are dancing to BTS hits by grilling cheesy lobsters for just KRW9,000 (RM32), and you can get large rolls and skewers stuffed with meat and kimchi for KRW10,000 (RM35) .
I would advocate trying a little bit of everything, if you can share it. Warning: the food portions here are huge.
There is also the hallabong mandarin from Jeju, a fruit that looks like a small bushy hill. Cold hallabong juice is a fresh, light, unsweetened version of orange juice. There is a hallabong flavored version of everything, including cream puffs, chocolates and even cold noodles.
Jeju is famous for its home-raised black pigs, similar to Iberian ones. There is actually a rue du Porc Noir. If you’re hoping for this to be a showcase of the best Korean pork barbecue, you’ll be sorely disappointed as it’s a tourist trap. Instead, head to one of the many barbecue restaurants on the streets where locals congregate, and you’ll find something to suit your palate and your wallet.
Look out for the silver cutlass fish (galchi), whose flesh is as soft as cotton.
Stroll the North Shore promenade with its picturesque quays and rainbow-colored fences. Sit down for a bingsu or hotteok (crepe) at a cafe overlooking the sea.
Northeast and East
There are many UNESCO World Heritage sites to see here. The most spectacular of these is the Manjanggul lava tube. At 7.4 km long, it’s one of the longest lava tubes in the world, but you’re only allowed to explore 1 km of it. It’s a fairly easy hike, with lamps to guide you so you don’t trip on the uneven lava terrain. It can get quite cold underground, so you may want to bring a coat.
Stop for lunch at Myeongjin Jeongbok, considered the most famous abalone porridge on the coast. For 30,000 KRW (RM106), you can dine on a large platter of succulent grilled abalone. They even throw in a whole grilled mackerel for free. The green porridge is made with abalone and a tasty rice soup.
If you don’t want to climb Mount Hallasan but are up for an adventure, Seongsan Ilchulbong is a UNESCO-listed volcanic crater with a tuff cone. It looks like a huge dog bowl from above – filled with grass in the center. It took me 30 minutes to get up and 15 minutes to get down.
Meanwhile, a hike to Sangamburi Crater will take you around eight minutes. This pretty volcanic attraction, lined with fir and black pine trees, has plenty of Instagram-worthy spots.
There’s so much to see in the east that you’ll probably need to spend two days there. Discover Seongeup Folk Village, a medieval Joseon Dynasty village with well-preserved stone houses and thatched roofs. People still live here, unlike the more touristy Jeju Folk Village.
The modern attraction I would recommend here is Snoopy Garden. Yes, you roll your eyes, but the gardens are spectacular.
Jeju’s man-made attractions are doing everything they can to rival or outclass the United States, and that doesn’t mean things lightly.
South
Seogwipo City is the southernmost city of Jeju. It’s worth exploring for at least two days. The main waterfalls are found here, such as Jeongbang which falls from a cliff directly into the sea, or the three-part Cheonjeyeon Falls which requires an hour’s walk. The most romantic are the Jusangjeolli Cliffs, column-shaped lava rock formations seen in very few places in the world.
There’s also Hello Kitty Island, a very pink three-story dedication to our favorite mouthless character.
Seogwipo Harbor is full of boats, an underwater attraction, and a bridge to take you to Saeseom Island, where you can take an easy coastal hike to see two lighthouses: red and white.
It was in Seogwipo that I saw the Jeju divers, called Hanyeo and listed as UNESCO cultural heritage. Some of them are over 80 years old. They free-dive up to 30 m deep to catch abalone and shellfish.
When I spotted them, it was evening and they were returning from the sea with nets full of abalone.
Tip for spotting them: Look out for the little orange buoys in the sea. They anchor their nets there and you’ll sometimes see a flash of yellow fins as they dive.
West
Since West Jeju doesn’t have many natural attractions, this is where most of the museums and theme parks reside. There seems to be a museum for everything – from aerospace to contemporary art to antique cars and pianos to Greek mythology (!).
Head to the Ossuloc Tea Museum, where you can see roasted tea and taste delicious matcha lattes and matcha sand.
Next to Ossuloc is the Innisfree Museum, where you can make your own soap and put your name on it.
The theme parks here are not ordinary either. There is the Shinhwa theme park for children and the Loveland theme park for adults. Everything is well maintained, world class and worth the ticket price, so it all depends on your interests and what you want to spend your precious hours on.