CNN
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At first glance, Hydra is no different from its neighbors. Like other Aegean islands, it has whitewashed streets, jasmine-scented air and breathtaking views of the sparkling blue waters that surround it.
What sets Hydra apart is its preferred mode of transportation. Locals resisted the clamor of horns and instead embraced the rhythmic sound of horses’ hooves.
Here, cars are not only absent; they are intentionally kept apart. The ban on motorized vehicles (except fire trucks, garbage trucks and ambulances) is enshrined in local law.
The Greek island’s population of around 2,500 travels using mules, donkeys and small horses.
Stepping off the ferry and into Hydra Harbor, the heart of the island, visitors are greeted by small horses that gracefully weave through the cobblestone streets and give them a taste of the island’s leisurely pace.
As you stroll through Hydra’s scenic trails, it’s common to spot locals going about their daily lives, accompanied by their four-legged companions.
From Kaminia, a quiet village on the south coast adorned with traditional stone houses, to Mandraki on the island’s west coast, renowned for its crystal clear waters and laid-back aura, the island is closely linked to their presence.
“Hydra is an island that really takes you back in time,” says Harriet Jarman, owner of a horseback riding company, Harriet’s Hydra horses.
“All transportation on this island is by horse or mule. Because there are no cars, everyone’s life is a little calmer.”
Courtesy of Harriet Jarman
“Hydra is an island that really takes you back in time,” says local resident Harriet Jarman.
Jarman’s relationship with Hydra began 24 years ago when her mother took her to the island on vacation, leading to the life-changing decision to make Hydra their permanent home.
It was a decade later, during the Greek economic crisis, that Jarman came under pressure to sell his beloved horse, Chloe.
Determined to keep her beloved companion, she decides to create her horseback riding business, a business that not only supports Chloe but also allows her to share her love for the island’s landscapes.
“I was tired of being told to sell her (Chloé) because keeping a horse is expensive,” she remembers. “I thought, Okay, I’m going to show people the reasons why I want to stay on the island myself.”
The company now has a crew of 12 horses, with guided tours through the island’s trails led by experienced riders.
These journeys pass through the many picturesque monasteries and picturesque beaches of Hydra. Riders can even take a refreshing swim alongside the horses.
Anton Petrus/Moment RF/Getty Images
Donkeys are a common means of transportation on Hydra.
The decision to adopt traditional horse-drawn transportation, known as “cáiques,” pays homage to the island’s rich heritage and commitment to sustainable living.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Hydra flourished as a bustling maritime hub. But as the 20th century arrived, which introduced motorized transportation to the rest of Greece, the island’s narrow, steep streets, combined with rocky terrain, made travel by car impossible.
So residents clung to equestrian transportation, which could traverse the rugged landscape more efficiently.
Over time, this reliance on hooves became ingrained in the Hydra culture and way of life.
Donkeys and mules became an integral part of the island’s identity and were used to transport goods, building materials and even people across the island – a tradition that continues to this day.
“Everyone lives on their own here,” says Jarman. “They are our cars and our hands, carrying everything from building materials and furniture to luggage and groceries.”
Nikolaos-Panagiotis Kiafas
Jewelry designer and Hydra native Elena Votsi is inspired by the natural beauty of the region.
The absence of cars has contributed to the island’s undeniable tranquility, attracting creatives from around the world, including famous Italian actress Sophia Loren, who fell in love with Hydra while filming “The Boy on a Dolphin” in 1957.
“Hydra offers wonderful colors, beautiful light and a unique atmosphere that has inspired many people,” says jewelry designer and Hydra native Elena Votsi.
Known for her work that combines traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics, Votsi draws inspiration from her Greek heritage as well as nature and geometry.
Although born in Athens, Votsi said she spent her summers and vacations in Hydra, visiting her father. She says the lack of cars makes it a magical place to work and has inspired her designs since the start of her career.
“The sun, the rocks and the wave patterns inspired me. The natural beauty and uniqueness of the island have had a significant influence on my creative process,” said Votsi.
In 2003, she was invited to participate in a competition to redesign the Summer Olympics medal for the International Olympic Committee.
After receiving the invitation to compete, Votsi went to her home in Hydra. The island, with its ineffable charm, played the role of muse, prompting a creative journey that led Votsi to win the competition and add his name to the records of the world’s most famous sporting events.
Many famous artists have visited or lived in Hydra. The magnetic charm of the island attracted painters Brice Marden, Alexis Veroucas, Panagiotis Tetsis, Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas And John Craxtonas well as author Henry Miller on its banks, each finding inspiration amid its tranquil landscapes.
Canadian singer-songwriter Leonard Cohen discovered Hydra in the 1960s and took up residence there for several years. His time in Hydra is immortalized in his song “Bird on the Wire”, which he partially wrote while living there.
“Hydra is a paradise. It’s a magical place to work and a blessing to be able to come here as an artist, as so many others have done before me and will continue to do,” Votsi said.
